The Earliest Autumn Scenery in Honshu! Plus, Matsukawa’s Hidden Springs

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Nestled along the Ura-Iwate trekking course next to Mt. Kurikoma, Mt. Mitsuishi is often said to be one of the most beautiful places on Honshu for viewing autumn leaves. The best time for viewing is typically mid to late-September.

In Japanese, Mitsuishi means “three rocks.” It’s said that this name has to do with the three boulder-like formations of lava jutting out near the mountain’s summit.

The ridgeline stretching south connects Mt. Mokkodake, Mt. Morobidake, and Kensomori, collectively forming the Ura-Iwate trekking course, which goes around the “back” of Mt. Iwate. It’s a long course, but there are two rest cottages along the way where you can rest, allowing you to go at your own pace.

Ura-Iwate Ridgeline Course:

Elevation Gain – 793m

Course Time – 8hrs 50min (1-day trek possible)

Amazing Scenery That Can’t be Caught in a Single Day!

Have you ever seen the morning or evening sun from on a mountain? Imagine the cool, clear air and gradual buildup of light. It’s an exceptional experience that we think will stay with you. Catching a photo of such a scene would seem difficult, but you’d be surprised how easy it can be if you’re willing to stay a night or two, whether in one of the mountain cottages or at an onsen inn.

Even if you’re a beginner to the world of trekking, the Iwate-Hachimantai Mountain Guide Association offers guides. Not only are these guides qualified by the Japan Mountain Guide Association, but they may also be locals who can tell you all about the perfect seasons to get out there and enjoy the national park. Whether it’s a private tour or a whole group, they can adjust to every visitor’s wants and needs.

They can also offer counseling and advice based on group size and course.

※Reservation is required. Contact information can be found below, or on the Iwate-

※Hachiimantai Guide Association’s website.

The closest bus stop to the Mitsuishi Mountain Cottage is the Matsukawa Onsen stop.

Matsukawa Onsen is a three-facility complex consisting of “Shofu-so,” “Matsukawa-so,” and “Kyoun-so,” three separate hot springs.

Each one has both mixed gender and segregated hot springs baths, where you can relax in their milky waters while surrounded by autumn scenery. Not only that, but if you opt to stay the night, you’ll receive an onsen voucher. This voucher will let you use the baths at either of the other two facilities for free!

Shoufu-so opened its doors 270 years ago during the Edo period, making it a historic facility even compared to the other two. Located among mountain foothills, it has the aura of a spring hidden deep in nature. Shoufu-so has two male indoor baths, two female indoor baths, and one mixed outdoor bath for a total of five baths. The outdoor bath offers not only an excellent view of Matsukawa Gorge draped in autumn scenery, but also the river below and the nearby mountain peaks. Combined with warm, milky waters each fed by two all-natural springs, we think onsen-lovers will find a lot to enjoy.

Matsukawa Onsen Shofu-so

Matsuo-Yoriki 1-41, Hachimantai City, Iwate Prefecture 028-7302
0195-78-2245
Matsukawa Onsen Shofu-so website
Daytime Onsen Hours: 8:00 – 20:00
Adults ¥600 / Children ¥300 (5yrs to elementary age)
Overnight Rooms (two meals per night)
Check-in: 15:00
Check-out: 10:00
Rooms are unavailable each Tuesday and Wednesday, and the baths are closed each Wednesday.

Matsukawa-so is located perfectly in the middle of the three facilities. They have two indoor baths each for men and women, two roofed female outdoor baths, and an additional mixed outdoor bathfor a total of seven baths, all fed by all-nature springs. They have both hot and lower-temperature springs, and their waters are a milky, yet uniquely vibrant blue.

Perhaps Matsukawa-so’s greatest attraction is its incredibly large mixed outdoor bath. Able to seat 50 people, it was featured in JR East’s “Let’s Go! Tohoku” campaign. Next to the outdoor bath is there “Egg Hall,” where you can make your own boiled eggs by dipping them in the heated onsen water. At ¥75 per egg, it’s a tasty snack that you can eat right there or take home with you, and they also provide supplies to draw on and decorate the shell. If you like, they’ll even provide a carton for you to insert up to 5 eggs in as a souvenir, free of charge (while supplies last)!

Matsukawa Onsen Matsukawa-so

Matsuo-Yoriki Matsukawa Onsen, Hachimantai City, Iwate Prefecture 028-7302
0195-78-2255
Matsukawa Onsen Matsukawa-so website
Daytime Onsen Hours: 8:00 – 18:00 (no entry past 17:00)
Adults ¥600 / Children ¥300 (5yrs to elementary age)
Parlor room available for reservation at extra cost
Overnight Rooms
Check-in: 15:00
Check-out: 10:00

Kyoun-so is located nearest to the mountain summit. It has one male and female indoor bath each, one female outdoor bath, and one mixed outdoor bath making four total baths. Compared to the other two, their waters are a cloudy viridian. It is separated into two buildings. While the main building has been renovated to provide a modern hotel-like atmosphere, the older side building used to be the focus of a health spa, and has a much more historic and nostalgic aura.

The mixed outdoor bath is adorned with several large boulders here and there for a decidedly rustic feel. Maybe visitors nervous about mixed bathing will find this helpful in addition to the cloudy waters for concealment? The surrounding scenery provided by the beech and oak trees is draped in gorgeous emerald in summer, rich gradients in fall, and pure white snow in winter, making it a beautiful bathing experience throughout the year.

Matsukawa Onsen Kyoun-so

Matsuo-Yoriki Matsukawa Onsen, Hachimantai City, Iwate Prefecture 028-7302
0195-78-2256
Matsukawa Onsen Kyoun-so website
Daytime Onsen Hours: 8:30 – 19:00 (No entry past 18:00)
Adults ¥600 / Children ¥300 (5yrs to elementary age)
Parlor room available at extra cost.
Overnight Rooms (Two meals per night)
Check-in: 15:00
Check-out: 10:00
Closed irregularly